Big Hug Goodbye to Sweet Salone!

I had an amazing and jam packed schedule over the past week. I went to Bo, the area where Rev. Peter grew up. For those of you who do not know him, he is the United Church Minister in the community where I grew up and where my parents and brother reside. It was great to see Bo and I even met a couple of people who know Peter! Bo is the second biggest city in Sierra Leone but is not nearly as congested as Freetown. Like many communities in Sierra Leone, they also use motorbikes to get around and I am happy to report that I am finished with my bike rides for now. I have learned how to say “Go slowly” in Mende, Themne and Krio! I have also managed to carry my luggage on bikes and figured out how to maneuver to get off and on with my skirts. Not easy tasks!

I met up with Isata (scholarship student) and we surprised one of our co-tutors from 2008 in a different city Kenema. Kenema is the third largest city in Salone is currently full of dust. Dry season! The next day we experienced even more dust when we went to a village near Moyamba. This was a once in a lifetime experience. We were covered with red dust and coughing like crazy! We had to travel about 50 miles down a dirt road full of giant potholes so it took a couple of hours. We arrived in a wonderful village to meet the one and only Francis (and of course the entire community!) Francis invited all of his school staff and extended family to his backyard where they built a special sitting area with palm trees just for the occasion. They all came with gifts for me so we filled the taxi with pineapples, coconuts, paw paws, yams, potatoes, plantains, bananas, rice, beni and even two live chickens. Francis showed me around his place and took me to his church before his wife gave me some groundnut stew…just happens to be my favourite Sierra Leonean dish! After eating, there were many speeches and prayers for all those Canadians who have been contributing to the scholarship fund. Next came the snaps, everybody wanted me to take their picture so I did my best to set up a portrait studio in the backyard. Many of the women practiced some Mende songs and then invited me to sit down for a sing-along. It gave me goosebumps and I will never forget their kind gesture. Soon enough, we were all up dancing while everyone sang and played various Sierra Leonean instruments. There were tears and hugs before heading back to Bo, I am so glad that we made it to Yanama. Certainly a highlight of my entire experience. Isata came back to Freetown with me and stayed for a couple of days. She gave me a beautiful dress with intricate sewing – I was speechless. It was such a pleasure to have a lengthy visit with Rosemarie and Isata this trip. I feel like I really had the chance to get to know them and admire them both for their strength and courage. They have both invited me to their villages and I would love to meet their families so that will be top priority next trip!

I have wrapped up my internship with the SLTU although still have some aspects that I will continue as I write my thesis. I completed some more interviews this week and had a great send off from my thesis supervisor at the Relaxation Station. I have had a couple of slumber parties with Baby Angie and her family. Angie is full of hugs for me now and not shy at all – that only lasted a day. We played soccer, coloured, went on the computers, watched television and danced. I hate to say goodbye to this family but on a good note I will be leaving my phone with them so we can keep in touch when I return to Canada.

I miss everyone in Canada so much and it is time to come home despite the wonderful experience I have had here in Salone! I am praying that Heathrow is operational on Christmas Day as I want to be at my parents’ place by Christmas night. I will see you all soon! Happy Holidays!

Goodbye to the North

I wrapped up the huge portion of my research and am extremely happy with how my experience has turned out. Still have a to-do list but it seems much more manageable. Going to try and complete six more interviews and then I will be done that aspect of my work. My colleagues have been more than keen to take part in this so I have been very fortunate.

Now for some updates….so much has happened but I haven’t had internet access!

Three teachers have been offered a scholarship to obtain their teaching certificate – Mahawa, Adama and Philip. They will all attend Northern Polytechnic in Makeni, with their first semester in October. They are all extremely grateful and have asked me to pass on a big thank you to my family and friends. Rosemarie is going to coordinate all administrative aspects in Sierra Leone as well as help the new students with orientation and paperwork. Rosemarie is really happy to take on this task and coordinate it for then next three years…if not more. At this point, she will be compensated for her hard work with another three year college program (Higher Teacher Certificate) that she will begin the following year. She is a keen student and inspiring teacher who wants to continue pursuing more certification. Thank you to Rosemarie. I hope that her help will allow us to expand the scholarship program over time. Thanks again to everyone for their generous contributions.

Finally I have been reunited with Baby Angie! No one could locate Angie and her mom until very recently which was very stressful. Due to many difficulties, they relocated to Freetown and I have had a few visits this week. Baby Angie is 2 now and is quite the little character. Let’s just say she has personality! She pranced around my room yesterday trying on all my shoes and spilled milk powder all over the place. She just gives you a cheeky grin and carries on with things. She carries the little bear I gave her on her back just the way mothers carry their babies – absolutely adorable.

Saying goodbyes has been a very emotional part of my trip and unfortunately I still have more farewells ahead of me this week. I was really touched by my African Ma’s family goodbye where I was treated to sauce and rice prepared at one of my sister’s restaurants. They also gave me a beautiful piece of garra, a cloth unique to Sierra Leone. It really was such a privilege to be welcomed into this family’s home. I will miss them so much. Spending time with the students at the school for the hearing impaired was also such an amazing experience and I will miss the staff and students very much, especially a few of the girls that I got to know during my stay. Of course saying goodbye to all of the schools and research participants was also very difficult. The images of speeches, songs and huge groups of children waving goodbye will certainly stay with me and keep me motivated as I go home to write my thesis. I loved my time up North and hope that I will be able to come back within a year or two.

This might be my last blog entry until I get home….only 10 more days. Hard to believe! I leave tomorrow to visit Isata and Francis in Bo and Moyamba. Can’t wait to see them!

Back in a Month!

My research is going extremely well. I realized that I have completed about half of my interviews and am fairly content with the amount of observation that I have done. Of course, I will continue to get into the schools until I leave because I seem to learn something new every visit. Last week, I learned how to make glue with dried cassava and water. A teacher heated it up over a fire and then used the paste to hang up learning materials in her classroom. Tape is not often a possibility in the villages and even when there is tape, the humidity causes posters and charts to fall down. She also showed me how to make traditional skirts out of old rice bags and string out of palm leaves. What a wealth of information just from one visit!

My taxi rides out to the various villages continue to be some of the richest experiences I have had in the country thanks to all of the wonderful passengers and drivers. I have made connections with several NGOs, met friends of friends and also met a Human Rights Journalist/Poet. I am going to ask for his permission to post some of his work. Very moving.

The tales from the taxi certainly continue. Last week, I was surprised to see a live chicken occupying the passenger seat but the ride got even more interesting. Instead of the driver putting passengers on a cada (motorbike) to avoid getting blackmailed any further from the police, he actually passed his keys over to a passenger and hid in the trunk. Bit scary due to the heat but he did avoid the extra bribes and got away with the one standard payment. The corruption has become such a norm for taxi drivers but boy does it get a heated discussion going – the passengers and drivers are not happy to say the least. People will discuss police corruption for the duration of the ride, even if the ride takes hours. It is the reason why taxis overload their vehicles, such a vicious cycle.

I was sad to say goodbye to my friend Maribeth from Thunderbay who was in Sierra Leone for three weeks. We had a great time. We were invited into a traditional local court called a barrie where local problems are brought to a chairperson, had great welcomes into schools, spent a day at a beautiful beach and sat on the porch learning about life in Salone.

Well, going to get back to my research – one month to go!

Tuition Paid Up

For those of you involved in supporting the education of Rosemarie, Isata and Francis...I have just paid all of their tuition for the term. I will pay for their final semester before I leave! They will soon be graduating and I have some new candidates in mind if we are able to continue our support. I had the chance to observe Rosemarie practice teach in a grade one class with one hundred students. It certainly confirmed what a remarkable teacher she is and how important our fundraising project has been. I have had the chance to visit with Rosemarie several times this trip which has been wonderful. I will be visiting Isata and Francis in December. Look forward to the road trip! I have been trying to upload some photos but the computer is toooooo slllloooowwwww! I'll try again another time.

Some Serious Hustle and Bustle

I came back to Freetown to get a few errands done only to find out that one of my errand days was a public holiday for Eid! So, that being the case, I braved the streets of the city yesterday cramming in as much as I could. I wish it was realistic to videotape the hustle and bustle of the city streets but a camera would just get knocked out of my hands and I wouldn’t be able to walk properly. To get downtown, I have to take a taxi to a junction, get out and then find another taxi to a closer stop near the central part of town. It is extremely difficult to find taxis from this end of town due to the congestion and locals tell me the only way to do it is to leave very early….well, I was too late at 10am that’s for sure! Noon until evening is rush hour! And beyond any rush hour I have ever experienced anywhere!

I usually have someone come with me but am feeling more confident about getting around the city and decided it would be easier to head out on my own schedule. I was pleased with myself that I made it to the Eastern Police point without any big hassles. This is where you get out and walk…no more space for cars! The street is jam packed with sellers who barely have enough room to set out their bowl of goods or set up a small table. The air is extremely polluted and it can be quite difficult to breathe at times. The sounds of the downtown market space include sellers shouting out what is for sale and the prices at top volume. The blaring horns fill the background and brave cart pushers use a whistle to push their load through the crowd. I watch the locals weave through the crowds ducking under baskets, jumping over potholes and dodging the odd vehicle that somehow miraculously makes it’s way through the chaos. They manage to do this so gracefully. Unlike the locals, I awkwardly try to strain my way through the masses with the odd wheelbarrow hitting me from behind . It is truly overwhelming but once you are in the middle, there is just no way but straight through! The crowd reminds me of how I feel leaving concerts or sporting events at home except people are going about business and it doesn’t stop for kilometers. People are friendly, greeting me along the way, offering me their best price and even helping me with directions amongst the hissing, bumping and yelling. What made yesterday even more interesting were all the goats on leads. Those preparing for Eid were taking home the goats they purchased ready for a big celebration.

I certainly was thrilled to get back to my end of town last night to find my thesis supervisor and some other friends at the Relaxation station. We enjoyed a couple of Star beers and all sang along to a Bob Marley tribute playing on the television. Thank God for the Relaxation Station!

Tales from the Taxis

I have fully experienced local taxi service now and…..wow, it has been unbelievable! There are line ups of taxis here going on specific routes to either areas within a city or to another city. I am still working out the details but seem to get to my main destinations with ease now. Well, it’s at least easier!

Up North, my first taxi day was quite an adventurous introduction. The man picking me up on the motorbike to get to the taxi line was running behind, so we started off late. I figured showing up an hour late to my research site was not out of the norm so didn’t worry at all. Once I arrived at the taxi line, it took over an hour to secure a taxi. Basically, the driver waits until the car is full and then adds a few extra passengers and off we go! Initially, the driver was trying to fill a station wagon which would have taken ages. I checked out the supermarket, had a drink, read a few chapters of my book and was still waiting. Luckily, he eventually traded the station wagon in for what would be considered a 5-seater car at home. Except here, the passenger seat holds two and the back seat holds four. I was so relieved when the driver started the car because I had big plans for my research that day! The seven of us set out for a rural community that is normally about half an hour away. Fifteen minutes outside the city boundaries, we stopped at the police point where our driver and the police officer got into an argument. The police officer ordered all of the passengers out of the car to sit beside a fruit stand and told the driver to take the taxi back to its starting point! She said she would find us another ride which I found hard to believe since it took me so long to find a taxi heading in my direction to begin with. We waited for awhile and then surprisingly a taxi stopped that was carrying four passengers already – a couple and their two children. The rest of us piled into the taxi for a cramped ride to the village! There were four of us sharing the front seat! I arrived fours late but on a good note was driven right to the school which saved having to organize another motorbike ride. Funnily enough, I was the only one concerned about time, no one else seemed to bat an eyelash! This is a good example of how “time” can be seen so differently.

I took taxis back and forth to this village for about five days and then a long taxi ride when I returned to the capital city. There are just too many stories to share and I am not sure if I can even come close to articulating the variety of responses and experiences I have had! My taxi rides have been uncomfortable and sweaty but extremely interesting. You just never know what will happen next. I have learned more of the local language while in the taxi, discussed the life of a late politician, met some very motivated college students and just enjoyed the view of lush tropical forest. We made a lot of stops on the way where my patience was tested to the max! The stops slow us down but always bring a unique surprise. For example, one of the first times my taxi stopped I thought we were needed for a road side emergency. Nope, we were stopped to transport bananas. A gigantic banana load, tree trunks and all! Another time, about thirty car batteries were stuffed into the trunk along with some steel, and then removed, repacked, removed, repacked, removed and finally repacked…while the driver and battery owner negotiated how much money should be paid to carry the batteries. Like the bananas, this weighed down the car significantly and added another hour to our journey! My mantra “Don’t fight it , just enjoy the ride….”

Special Invitations

I have had the privilege to attend some unique cultural events this week - the first being a celebration of a Bishop’s 50th year of work in Sierra Leone. I was able to take photos and videos which I will attempt to post here. The Bishop is clearly well respected here and within the country as a whole. Many dignitaries including the President, Dr. Ernest Bai Koroma were in attendance. Mass was three hours long and not quite how I remember Catholic mass as a child. The prayers and hymns were sang in a variety of local languages and the congregation was happy to dance and sing throughout the service. There was a band and a choir who kept things very lively. The Bible was brought up to the front by a group of children dancing in traditional clothes. Communion was also brought up to the front by a group of people dancing. Gifts of oil, banners, rice and goats were brought to the Bishop after the main part of the service. I hope the images will capture some of my experience. Congratulations to the Bishop!

Yesterday, I was invited to a funeral of a fellow who worked with SLTU and is of the Muslim faith. If I understood correctly, a memorial service is held 40 days after the passing. Many people gathered for hours at the family home mourning and praying. Furthermore, it seemed to be a very social event and people gathered out on the street eating and sharing stories. There was definitely a real sense of community and care at the family home. After the service, the SLTU colleagues all gathered at the Northern office where we had a lunch and chance to visit. At the end, a bag (with raw meat that had been sacrificed along with popcorn) was provided to each person. A woman told me this is how the mourning ceremony ends. Rest in peace Mr. Richmond Tholley. Thank you to my friends for having me join the service.

Eat, Pray, Sweat!

I have had the very fortunate experience of staying at a guest house that is part of a convent. Yes, I have been spending time with the Sisters. It has been nothing but wonderful. Every morning, the roosters wake me up and I head down to the kitchen for a tasty bowl of porridge. I have given up the “Bun” for now! I am still in shock and it has been a week. One of the Sisters has been in Sierra Leone for 38 years and has been running a school for students who are hearing impaired. So, of course I have been learning sign language. There is a nursery, a primary school and a secondary school here. Aside from the regular core subjects, the secondary students have been busy preparing delicious meals for me, sewing, creating beadwork, weaving and constructing. One girl even gave me a massage as she participated in a six week massage course. The Sisters are certainly ensuring that these students have skills preparing them for potential jobs for their future. To say the least, this place is such an inspiration and I hope to be connected to this school upon my return to Canada. In communicating with the students here, this school has changed their life. Although they miss their families (as they live here), it is at this school where they learned how to sign and read lips. As I mentioned, they are learning vocational skills and have a lot less stigma here than in their home communities. When I am not relaxing at the guest house or working on my research, I have been fortunate enough to have lots of visits with Rosemarie. She greets me with bags of fresh bananas and proudly introduces me to many of her friends. She has also given me a tour of the Teacher’s College that she attends and I was able to bring the tuition money in person. She insists that it is not all that hot here and I try not to melt as we tour around town. I was relieved to hear my Freetown friends say that the heat up North was unbearable and they didn’t know how I was surviving the temps. If they were complaining, you can imagine how a Canuck finds the heat.

Bompusseh rides a bike

On the day I arrived up North, I had a visitor from the Northern SLTU office. He has been such a great help during my stay. He arranged visits with schools and has answered many of my questions while outside the capital city. He has certainly made things run smoothly. To my surprise, the way to get around this area is by motorbike. He picked me up at 8am (in a Toronto Maple Leafs ball cap I might add) and we began touring schools in more rural areas throughout the week. I love how much I can get done in a day here compared to the capital city, there just isn't the traffic to fight with. The air is much cleaner too and I can walk around safely as long as I don't mind being greeted as "Opotu"(White Person) all day. My twenty Themne words have come in handy here and the neighbours are all hysterical when I respond in their local language. They say I'm a "Themne" girl now and have given me a variety of Themne names. What an honour. Coincidentally, I was already given the Themne name "Bompusseh" a few years ago which I have discovered means authority and is a name traditionally given to the chief's wife. Not quite sure what to think of that!?!

Three Inspiring Sierra Leonean"Ma"s....

Apologies for not keeping up so well, I have not had internet access for over a week. Now that I do, it is very slow and my blog is only showing up in French...so I hope I am following instructions correctly!

So, back to my topic....How did I luck out with three mothers in Sierra Leone?

The day after I arrived in Freetown, a colleague at SLTU who has always been so helpful was quickly named “Angie’s mom”. She has been so helpful in planning my trip to Sierra Leone and has also helped me organize tuition for the teacher candidates over the last few years. She comforted my mom in Canada with an email upon my safe arrival and just generally has her eye out for me. She helped me buy and repair a much needed cell phone and even came out for an evening of dancing at the China House. She is a multi-tasking mom who always has a contagious smile on her face. She is determined that I will be speaking Krio fluently and tells everyone at the headquarters to only speak Krio to me!

My second “Ma” was introduced to me by one of the SLTU drivers. She lives near Hotel 5:10 and like most moms wants me to eat – LOTS. She prepared me pepper chicken and she has tried her best to put me through a Themne immersion program. Although my vocabulary consists of about twenty words, we somehow manage. We even spoke on the phone while I was out of town! She is a resourceful woman who runs a shop out of her home, cooking for many of the neighbours. I can see that she is a hard worker and I hope that her determination will motivate me too.

My “Ma” from the North is a colleague’s mother. She welcomed me to her home upon arrival with a big hug. Soon after my colleagues and I were eating cassava leaves and rice on the front porch. She announced that she is my African mother and that I can come anytime. I instantly felt welcomed and have been over for visits during my time up North. I love how relaxed the household is and how everybody gathers regularly on the front porch. She takes care of so many things in such a quiet and unassuming way. I look forward to my next visit up North.

World Teachers Day - October 5

I started my morning with a wake up call from a colleague who I have not seen yet during this trip. He told me he was coming two days ago but he showed up at 8am today instead. Sierra Leone time! He told me about a Krio language manual they hope to implement soon and I hope to test it out as a student. We discussed some of my research among other things and not long after he was on the phone with my past co-tutor who stopped by on his way to Makeni. Spending time in the lobby of Hotel 5:10, named after World Teachers Day, with two Sierra Leonean educators was a very meaningful way to start the day.

World Teachers Day often goes unnoticed at home (with the exception of Finch PS where the Parent Council recognizes it every year!) It appears to be a date with a deeper significance here in Sierra Leone. After a decade long civil war, Sierra Leoneans are working so hard to prioritize education and truly value its potential. With a huge disruption to the formal education system, Sierra Leoneans do not take education for granted. Teachers and students work so hard despite the congested classrooms and lack of resources in many communities. Last night I received a piece of mail at the hotel from a teacher I met recently here in Freetown. She took the time to write and print a message for me wishing me a Happy World Teachers Day. What a surprise. Allan, my computer friend, also told me that schools regularly host an assembly on this day. I couldn’t help but think about home and how in so many ways we take education for granted, often complaining about things that seem so petty in comparison. Happy World Teachers Day to my teacher friends all over the globe. I hope the dedication and loyalty of teachers in Sierra Leone will offer some inspiration to all of you.

In terms of my research, my plans are moving forward and I hope to be visiting some communities outside of the capital very soon. I am definitely going to have to change my method as there are not enough teachers located in one school. Since the Project Overseas program aims to offer professional development to teachers from remote locations, the interview candidates are spread out. Flexibility is the name of the game! Last night, there was a storm with a downpour, thunder and the loudest cracks of lightening I have ever heard. It is no surprise that water drifted into my room due to the strong winds and that the computers have been putting up a fight. Allan has been working away trying to fix all the problems this morning while providing IT training to a small group here in the lab. He is a serious multi-tasker! Hopefully, I will be able to post this today.

….Looks like the internet is working again. I ended up heading out to three World Teachers Day celebrations with two colleagues. We went to a community here in Kissy, to Waterloo and also to Hastings. Although it is not an official public holiday, teachers are not expected to be teaching in schools on October 5th. Instead they attend community celebrations. There was everything from formal speeches from the Deputy Minister of Education, Sport and Youth to chats around a table eating cookies. Couldn’t have asked for a better way to spend my day.

Just an Update...

What is new with me? Well, I now have two phone numbers just like my Sierra Leonean friends. Companies allow you to speak with others who have the same company at discounted rates and to text for free….so the SLTU figured I better join in….so I am now a Zain and Africell customer! Now to figure out when I should change SIM cards and how I will know who has what kind of phone. Seems complicated to me but it works for everyone here. Best I learn quickly!

I have been attending workshops hosted by the Sierra Leone Teachers’ Union (SLTU) and various partners such as the Denmark Teachers’ Union and Education International. Today I sat in on part of a workshop on HIV/AIDS. It has been very though provoking and I have been making many connections with people in other communities within Sierra Leone. The teachers at these workshops are considered leaders within their schools and in the SLTU. They are truly inspiring to say the least! I have even met two teachers from Liberia who know Wes and George! They are great.

I have also had a couple of appointments with my thesis supervisor here in Sierra Leone. It was great sharing resources with him as he is doing his PhD on a topic somewhat related to my own studies. Looking forward to meeting him again on Monday.

Aside from work, I have been shopping downtown where you can purchase anything from clothes hangers, steering wheels, school supplies and soap through the vehicle window. It is so convenient, aside from the exhaust fumes you inhale as you negotiate a fair price! I also managed to get out for fish and chips and for some unknown reason was invited back into the kitchen along with several others while they prepared the lunch. It ended with a staff member being upset with young boys calling him a name. I had no clue what was going on as the flurry of communication was in another language. Turns out he wanted to take the boys to the police station! It is amazing how you can absolutely misinterpret a situation. I thought he was upset with the woman because she was sleeping on the kitchen floor.

That being said, my Krio is coming along. I am surprising people regularly with my responses (although they are very limited). There are almost twenty languages spoken in Sierra Leone though so my language work is seriously cut out for me!

Sweet Salone

As soon as I got off the plane, all the familiar sights and sounds welcomed me back to Freetown - the warm smiles and greetings, the hustle and bustle of selling and buying and even the chaotic traffic. I have already had so many reunions with friends and colleagues – it has been incredible. I know there are many more to come soon. So far, I have spent my time setting up some of the basics but also attending portions of some professional development sessions going on here at Hotel 5:10. I managed to do some shopping and unpack, just getting reacquainted with Sweet Salone. I have also been trying to learn some Krio but haven’t made a lot of progress. I can’t help but miss George, Paul, Karen, Kim and Pam…it just seems one of them should be out on the balcony with me at dusk chatting about our day and listening to the buzz of everybody below preparing evening meals! I can’t complain though, I was invited to a party last night with a teacher from Denmark and a group of teachers from Sierra Leone. Always great to meet new friends. SLTU have been taking VERY GOOD care of me. They are really going over the top to ensure my comfort and I thank them for that. I’m in good hands…

Heading Back to Sierra Leone

I'll be heading back to Sierra Leone on September 25th! Stay tuned for more!

6am Phonecalls

From time to time this year, Isata and Rosemarie have called me to say hello...usually at 6am our time. I always wake up so quickly when I hear their voice, it is so exciting to hear from them! They are both doing well and constantly reminding me of how thankful they are that we are supporting their studies. On Friday morning, Rosemarie called and was very excited to tell me that she is now completing her practicums. She has a class one right now and is using the books that we gave her in the summer. The books are written by Sierra Leonean authors and so I purchased some for each of our teachers last summer. I told her that I was likely returning to Sierra Leone this fall and she has invited me to come to the university. It would be so great to see it all in person.