Saturday, October 23, 2010

Special Invitations

I have had the privilege to attend some unique cultural events this week - the first being a celebration of a Bishop’s 50th year of work in Sierra Leone. I was able to take photos and videos which I will attempt to post here. The Bishop is clearly well respected here and within the country as a whole. Many dignitaries including the President, Dr. Ernest Bai Koroma were in attendance. Mass was three hours long and not quite how I remember Catholic mass as a child. The prayers and hymns were sang in a variety of local languages and the congregation was happy to dance and sing throughout the service. There was a band and a choir who kept things very lively. The Bible was brought up to the front by a group of children dancing in traditional clothes. Communion was also brought up to the front by a group of people dancing. Gifts of oil, banners, rice and goats were brought to the Bishop after the main part of the service. I hope the images will capture some of my experience. Congratulations to the Bishop!

Yesterday, I was invited to a funeral of a fellow who worked with SLTU and is of the Muslim faith. If I understood correctly, a memorial service is held 40 days after the passing. Many people gathered for hours at the family home mourning and praying. Furthermore, it seemed to be a very social event and people gathered out on the street eating and sharing stories. There was definitely a real sense of community and care at the family home. After the service, the SLTU colleagues all gathered at the Northern office where we had a lunch and chance to visit. At the end, a bag (with raw meat that had been sacrificed along with popcorn) was provided to each person. A woman told me this is how the mourning ceremony ends. Rest in peace Mr. Richmond Tholley. Thank you to my friends for having me join the service.

Thursday, October 21, 2010

Eat, Pray, Sweat!

I have had the very fortunate experience of staying at a guest house that is part of a convent. Yes, I have been spending time with the Sisters. It has been nothing but wonderful. Every morning, the roosters wake me up and I head down to the kitchen for a tasty bowl of porridge. I have given up the “Bun” for now! I am still in shock and it has been a week. One of the Sisters has been in Sierra Leone for 38 years and has been running a school for students who are hearing impaired. So, of course I have been learning sign language. There is a nursery, a primary school and a secondary school here. Aside from the regular core subjects, the secondary students have been busy preparing delicious meals for me, sewing, creating beadwork, weaving and constructing. One girl even gave me a massage as she participated in a six week massage course. The Sisters are certainly ensuring that these students have skills preparing them for potential jobs for their future. To say the least, this place is such an inspiration and I hope to be connected to this school upon my return to Canada. In communicating with the students here, this school has changed their life. Although they miss their families (as they live here), it is at this school where they learned how to sign and read lips. As I mentioned, they are learning vocational skills and have a lot less stigma here than in their home communities. When I am not relaxing at the guest house or working on my research, I have been fortunate enough to have lots of visits with Rosemarie. She greets me with bags of fresh bananas and proudly introduces me to many of her friends. She has also given me a tour of the Teacher’s College that she attends and I was able to bring the tuition money in person. She insists that it is not all that hot here and I try not to melt as we tour around town. I was relieved to hear my Freetown friends say that the heat up North was unbearable and they didn’t know how I was surviving the temps. If they were complaining, you can imagine how a Canuck finds the heat.

Bompusseh rides a bike

On the day I arrived up North, I had a visitor from the Northern SLTU office. He has been such a great help during my stay. He arranged visits with schools and has answered many of my questions while outside the capital city. He has certainly made things run smoothly. To my surprise, the way to get around this area is by motorbike. He picked me up at 8am (in a Toronto Maple Leafs ball cap I might add) and we began touring schools in more rural areas throughout the week. I love how much I can get done in a day here compared to the capital city, there just isn't the traffic to fight with. The air is much cleaner too and I can walk around safely as long as I don't mind being greeted as "Opotu"(White Person) all day. My twenty Themne words have come in handy here and the neighbours are all hysterical when I respond in their local language. They say I'm a "Themne" girl now and have given me a variety of Themne names. What an honour. Coincidentally, I was already given the Themne name "Bompusseh" a few years ago which I have discovered means authority and is a name traditionally given to the chief's wife. Not quite sure what to think of that!?!

Three Inspiring Sierra Leonean"Ma"s....

Apologies for not keeping up so well, I have not had internet access for over a week. Now that I do, it is very slow and my blog is only showing up in French...so I hope I am following instructions correctly!

So, back to my topic....How did I luck out with three mothers in Sierra Leone?

The day after I arrived in Freetown, a colleague at SLTU who has always been so helpful was quickly named “Angie’s mom”. She has been so helpful in planning my trip to Sierra Leone and has also helped me organize tuition for the teacher candidates over the last few years. She comforted my mom in Canada with an email upon my safe arrival and just generally has her eye out for me. She helped me buy and repair a much needed cell phone and even came out for an evening of dancing at the China House. She is a multi-tasking mom who always has a contagious smile on her face. She is determined that I will be speaking Krio fluently and tells everyone at the headquarters to only speak Krio to me!

My second “Ma” was introduced to me by one of the SLTU drivers. She lives near Hotel 5:10 and like most moms wants me to eat – LOTS. She prepared me pepper chicken and she has tried her best to put me through a Themne immersion program. Although my vocabulary consists of about twenty words, we somehow manage. We even spoke on the phone while I was out of town! She is a resourceful woman who runs a shop out of her home, cooking for many of the neighbours. I can see that she is a hard worker and I hope that her determination will motivate me too.

My “Ma” from the North is a colleague’s mother. She welcomed me to her home upon arrival with a big hug. Soon after my colleagues and I were eating cassava leaves and rice on the front porch. She announced that she is my African mother and that I can come anytime. I instantly felt welcomed and have been over for visits during my time up North. I love how relaxed the household is and how everybody gathers regularly on the front porch. She takes care of so many things in such a quiet and unassuming way. I look forward to my next visit up North.

Tuesday, October 5, 2010

World Teachers Day - October 5

I started my morning with a wake up call from a colleague who I have not seen yet during this trip. He told me he was coming two days ago but he showed up at 8am today instead. Sierra Leone time! He told me about a Krio language manual they hope to implement soon and I hope to test it out as a student. We discussed some of my research among other things and not long after he was on the phone with my past co-tutor who stopped by on his way to Makeni. Spending time in the lobby of Hotel 5:10, named after World Teachers Day, with two Sierra Leonean educators was a very meaningful way to start the day.

World Teachers Day often goes unnoticed at home (with the exception of Finch PS where the Parent Council recognizes it every year!) It appears to be a date with a deeper significance here in Sierra Leone. After a decade long civil war, Sierra Leoneans are working so hard to prioritize education and truly value its potential. With a huge disruption to the formal education system, Sierra Leoneans do not take education for granted. Teachers and students work so hard despite the congested classrooms and lack of resources in many communities. Last night I received a piece of mail at the hotel from a teacher I met recently here in Freetown. She took the time to write and print a message for me wishing me a Happy World Teachers Day. What a surprise. Allan, my computer friend, also told me that schools regularly host an assembly on this day. I couldn’t help but think about home and how in so many ways we take education for granted, often complaining about things that seem so petty in comparison. Happy World Teachers Day to my teacher friends all over the globe. I hope the dedication and loyalty of teachers in Sierra Leone will offer some inspiration to all of you.

In terms of my research, my plans are moving forward and I hope to be visiting some communities outside of the capital very soon. I am definitely going to have to change my method as there are not enough teachers located in one school. Since the Project Overseas program aims to offer professional development to teachers from remote locations, the interview candidates are spread out. Flexibility is the name of the game! Last night, there was a storm with a downpour, thunder and the loudest cracks of lightening I have ever heard. It is no surprise that water drifted into my room due to the strong winds and that the computers have been putting up a fight. Allan has been working away trying to fix all the problems this morning while providing IT training to a small group here in the lab. He is a serious multi-tasker! Hopefully, I will be able to post this today.

….Looks like the internet is working again. I ended up heading out to three World Teachers Day celebrations with two colleagues. We went to a community here in Kissy, to Waterloo and also to Hastings. Although it is not an official public holiday, teachers are not expected to be teaching in schools on October 5th. Instead they attend community celebrations. There was everything from formal speeches from the Deputy Minister of Education, Sport and Youth to chats around a table eating cookies. Couldn’t have asked for a better way to spend my day.

Friday, October 1, 2010

Just an Update...

What is new with me? Well, I now have two phone numbers just like my Sierra Leonean friends. Companies allow you to speak with others who have the same company at discounted rates and to text for free….so the SLTU figured I better join in….so I am now a Zain and Africell customer! Now to figure out when I should change SIM cards and how I will know who has what kind of phone. Seems complicated to me but it works for everyone here. Best I learn quickly!


I have been attending workshops hosted by the Sierra Leone Teachers’ Union (SLTU) and various partners such as the Denmark Teachers’ Union and Education International. Today I sat in on part of a workshop on HIV/AIDS. It has been very though provoking and I have been making many connections with people in other communities within Sierra Leone. The teachers at these workshops are considered leaders within their schools and in the SLTU. They are truly inspiring to say the least! I have even met two teachers from Liberia who know Wes and George! They are great.


I have also had a couple of appointments with my thesis supervisor here in Sierra Leone. It was great sharing resources with him as he is doing his PhD on a topic somewhat related to my own studies. Looking forward to meeting him again on Monday.


Aside from work, I have been shopping downtown where you can purchase anything from clothes hangers, steering wheels, school supplies and soap through the vehicle window. It is so convenient, aside from the exhaust fumes you inhale as you negotiate a fair price! I also managed to get out for fish and chips and for some unknown reason was invited back into the kitchen along with several others while they prepared the lunch. It ended with a staff member being upset with young boys calling him a name. I had no clue what was going on as the flurry of communication was in another language. Turns out he wanted to take the boys to the police station! It is amazing how you can absolutely misinterpret a situation. I thought he was upset with the woman because she was sleeping on the kitchen floor.


That being said, my Krio is coming along. I am surprising people regularly with my responses (although they are very limited). There are almost twenty languages spoken in Sierra Leone though so my language work is seriously cut out for me!